Black Ipa: Um estilo de cerveja à beira da extinção

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Colabore com o jornalismo independente

Olá, cervejeiros esquecidos!

Assim como quase tudo nessa vida, os estilos cervejeiros também vem e vão. Tal qual ocorre em quase todas as empreitadas humanas, existe a criação, o florescimento, o apogeu e o ocaso dos estilos cervejeiros.

Ao longo da história, muitos estilos foram criados, festejados por um tempo, e, posteriormente, esquecidos. Alguns deles, como o caso do estilo alemão oriundo de Leipzig, o Gose, foram reavivados e transformado, por meio de uma nova roupagem, em algo mais atualizado. Outros, contudo, continuaram no esquecimento (eterno).

O mercado cervejeiro é como um organismo vivo, para usar o termo de Deleuze, um Rizoma (foi de lá que a Dogma buscou a inspiração para nomear sua IPA mais icônica), ele se espraia, interconecta-se coletivamente. Todavia, é possível que a cultura cervejeira acabe por se esquecer de alguns estilos que há não muito tempo faziam algum sucesso.

Nessa toada, é que surge o caso das famigeradas Black IPA’s. Um estilo que atualmente não anda muito em voga. Aliás, como o próprio título do texto já alude, está prestes a ser “extinto” (ou, à beira da extinção), dada a sua pouca procura e o seu esquecimento cada vez maior.

Decerto, vamos falar algumas peculiaridades sobre o estilo posto, e, também, tentar elucubrar algumas motivações pelas quais as Black IPA’s estejam experimentando este ostracismo cada vez mais crescente.

Será que poderemos ver um retorno inesperado delas em um futuro próximo?

Black IPA? Como uma cerveja pode ser “clara” e “preta” ao mesmo tempo?

Black IPA é um estilo de cerveja que não surgiu há tanto tempo assim, soa até um pouco comum que já esteja à beira da extinção. Em sua definição conceitual, se fôssemos traçar um diagrama de Venn, ele estaria marcado entre as Irish Stout’s e as West Coast IPA’s.

Um oximoro cervejeiro. Uma contradição por si mesma.

Usualmente, os estilos que costumam adentrar no rol dos ameaçados de serem extintos são os mais históricos e antigos, como, por exemplo, o alemão Adambier. Que por ser uma mistura de defumado com azedo acaba por não satisfazer os paladares mais atuais…

Inobstante, a cultura cervejeira está aí para mostrar que não apenas estilos mais “quadradões” são os alvos do esquecimento cervejeiro. É possível que estilos com uma roupagem mais acessível e moderna, como é o caso da Black IPA. O qual, em menos de 10 anos acabou envelhecendo rápido e de uma maneira não muito boa.

Black IPA é um paradoxo. Isso ocorre em virtude de seu nome, traduzido ao pela da letra, ser “Cerveja de alta fermentação Preta Clara ‘Índia’”, já que “Black” é preto, e IPA é India Pale Ale, Pale é “claro” ou “pálido”.

Linguisticamente, e logicamente também, é impossível que algo seja claro ou pálido e ao mesmo tempo seja preto. Se é preto, não tem como ser claro. Daí se estabelece o paradoxo. De toda forma, os manuais cervejeiros trazem essa nomenclatura, a qual se popularizou bastante.

Apesar de ser flagrantemente inconsistente, do ponto de vista lógico, depreende-se que ela é preta por ter maltes torrados, e que é uma IPA, por sua lupulagem (uso majoritário dos lúpulos Cascade, Simcoe e Amarillo). “Cervejeiramente” falando, há algum sentido, muito embora o nome do estilo, de fato, desafie os limites da lógica tradicional.

Cascadian Black Ale ou American-Style Black Ale?

Paralelamente ao nome mais usual de Black IPA, o estilo em questão também recebe outras duas nomenclaturas: Cascadian Black Ale e American-Style Black Ale.

É de bom tom destacar que esses dois nomes se valem da mesma premissa para expressar a mesma coisa. A diferença é a regionalização dada por cada um deles.

Quando se fala em “Cascadian Black Ale”, o termo “Cascadian” faz uma dupla referência. Primeiramente a uma região dos Estados Unidos, chamada de Cascade Mountains (ou Cordilheira das Cascatas). Ela é uma grande cadeia de montanhas da parte ocidental da América do Norte, estendendo-se desde o sul da Colúmbia Britânica, no Canadá, até Washington, Oregon e o norte da Califórnia, nos Estados Unidos.

A outra referência do termo é ao lúpulo igualmente denominado de Cascade (já mencionado anteriormente). Uma das variedades lupuladas mais icônicas plantadas no solo americano e amplamente utilizado em IPA’s e também, por suposto, nas Black IPA’s. Daí a ser uma homenagem estilística a um dos insumos mais utilizados no estilo.

Adicionalmente, o outro termo, American-Style Black Ale também faz menção ao modo americano de produzir cervejas pretas, sendo mais amplo do que o outro termo por ora mencionado. Falar de cerveja Ale preta feita à moda americana significa algo muito peculiar: ela é altamente lupulada.

Fazendo-se essa menção, há de se compreender que os dois nomes significam a mesma coisa: trata-se de uma IPA com maltes torrados, ou, qual seja, uma cerveja de alta fermentação (Ale), preta (maltes torrados) e fortemente lupulada (American-Style, Cascade, tanto faz, em síntese, seria uma IPA). Cascade apenas seria apenas um termo mais específico, geograficamente, que American

A maneira mais simples de descrever: uma cerveja preta e lupulada. Sim, simplificar às vezes é o melhor caminho.

Os porquês do esquecimento…

Discutir o porquê esquecemos das coisas equivale a rememorar porque lembramos delas… lembramos porque gostamos, ou esquecemos porque perdemos o interesse nelas. Soa natural colocar as coisas dessa maneira.

Vivemos de interesses, aquilo que a gente gosta sempre nos interessa, ao passo que algo que já nos chamou a atenção, hoje pode parecer bem desinteressante. Talvez esse seja o caso fatídico das Black IPA’s (ou Cascade Black Ale’s/American-Style Black Ale’s – chamem como quiser).

Então, vejamos os porquês do esquecimento.

Primeiramente, podemos dizer que uma das razões pelo esquecimento das Black IPA’s após 2015 foi o seu fracasso de vendas. O estilo, que no início parecia promissor, lá em 2010, nunca atingiu seu grande potencial de vendas.

Uma IPA escura e altamente lupulada nunca foi de grande popularidade nos anos subsequentes. Ao contrário das apostas iniciais, o estilo jamais chegou ao estrelato das Double IPA’s, que dominaram a metade da década. Ademais, após o evento das Hazies IPA’s (pós-2015), o cenário das Black IPA’s ficou ainda mais delicado, com uma derrocada comercial retumbante.

Secundariamente, o estilo nunca foi de fácil assimilação em termos sensoriais. Esse fator é mais bem evidenciado ao se retomar à sua definição estilística. Por ficar no hiato entre um estilo claro e outro escuro, as Black IPA’s findaram por serem relegadas ao esquecimento e ao “desprezo” da cultura cervejeira simplesmente porque não é fácil definir do que se trata, nem o que ela de fato é.

Por isso, em virtude desses dois motivos principais, além de algumas outras questões comerciais, a Black IPA acabou sendo um estilo destinado ao esquecimento e ao ostracismo cervejeiro. É o famoso estilo golfinho, surgiu com velocidade, apareceu, fez uma gracinha, mas logo afundou em sua relativa insignificância.

O revival das Black IPA’s?

Seria possível que elas voltassem à tona? Em pleno meados dos anos 20’s uma reviravolta de um estilo quase esquecido?

É possível, não muito provável, mas, ainda assim, possível. Decerto, o movimento de retorno das Black IPA’s ainda parece tímido e bem contido. No entanto, algumas das cervejarias americanas (como, por exemplo, a Stone Brewing, Firestone Walker Brewing Company e a Tree House Brewing Company) que iniciaram o esquecimento ao descontinuar suas produções, parecem dar sinais de retomar o estilo.

O interesse do mercado sobre as Black IPA’s ainda carrega uma grande dose de ceticismo. Tanto sensorialmente, quanto em termos de profusão de vendas, o estilo não parece ter uma base robusta de retorno.

Todavia, são nos casos em que as apostas são baixas que os retornos (financeiros, e em até certo ponto os culturais também) acabam sendo mais proveitosos. O próprio exemplo do estilo Gose lança luz sobre a discussão.

É possível haver o revival de um estilo, porém, é necessário que ele traga algum incremento para não soar apenas como uma repetição de algo que já fracassou outrora. Com as Gose’s a adição de frutas foi providencial para que o estilo fosse reavivado, mas, com as Black IPA’s parece faltar esse elemento de reinvenção própria na atualidade.

Agora é aguardar para ver, tem quem aposte suas fichas, já que o mercado americano já começa a ser bombardeado com lançamentos do estilo. Eu prefiro aguardar um pouco mais para saber se esse estilo consegue ser retomado de modo viável…

Saideira

Às vezes, alguns estilos cervejeiros morrem. Contudo, pode acontecer de o estilo estar apenas agonizando em seus últimos suspiros. Esse é justamente o caso das Black IPA’s.

O estilo em apreço alcançou relativo sucesso antes da metade da década passada, principalmente em alguns festivais de cerveja entre 2012 e 2013. Algo que gabaritou uma produção maior do estilo nos anos vindouros.

Inobstante, nos anos seguintes o estilo começou a ser esquecido. Primeiramente, porque era um estilo confuso, algo entre uma IPA e uma Stout, o que atordoava sensorialmente alguns consumidores. Consequentemente, a derrocada comercial, quando comparado com outros estilos (por exemplo, a Double IPA), fez com que as cervejarias o deixassem de lado.

Todavia, é possível se falar em um (ainda tímido) revival do estilo. Algumas cervejarias norte-americanas começam a produzir novamente esse estilo que vinha sendo esquecido desde 2015 e nos últimos anos quase não se falava mais nele. Pode ser esse o impulso para que novas Black IPA’s cheguem ao mercado em 2022 e 2023.

Ou não… pode ser só fogo de palha e o estilo acabe por ser enterrado de vez. Por enquanto, ele respira por aparelhos, será que vamos (e devemos) puxar o plugue?

Recomendação Musical

O texto de hoje foi recheado de alegorias sobre como um estilo cervejeiro pode morrer culturalmente. Ademais, o estilo em apreço, o das Black IPA’s, ainda não morreu. Ainda que esteja em uma fase terminal.

O estilo agoniza, vê sua morte florescer, mas ainda continua a dar seus últimos suspiros. Mais uma bela alegoria para puxar a nossa recomendação musical da semana.

O estilo também soa moribundo para quem o viu com pujança no início dos anos 2000. Estamos falando do New Metal, de uma banda, infelizmente, já falecida, o Mudvayne (ainda que haja quem diga que por serem técnicos demais, eles tocavam Math Metal, e não New Metal…)

A música a ser recomendada dessa banda que praticamente criou e reinventou o estilo também tem todas as alegorias existenciais sobre o processo de envelhecimento e sua finitude possíveis, chama-se Death Blooms (traduzindo, a morte floresce)!

Nada mais apropriado para o contexto de colapso das Black IPA’s atualmente…

Saúde, e boas Black IPA’s para quem ainda conseguir achar uma!

Lauro Ericksen

Lauro Ericksen

Um cervejeiro fiel, opositor ferrenho de Mammon (מָמוֹן) - o "deus mercado" -, e que só gosta de beber cerveja boa, a preços justos, sempre fazendo análise sensorial do que degusta.
Ministro honorário do STC: Supremo Tribunal da Cerveja.
Doutor (com doutorado) pela UFRN, mas, que, para pagar as contas das cervejas, a divisão social do trabalho obriga a ser: Oficial de Justiça Avaliador Federal e Professor Universitário. Flamenguista por opção do coração (ou seja, campeão sempre!).

Sigam-me no Untappd (https://untappd.com/user/Ericksen) para mais avaliações cervejeiras sinceras, sem jabá (todavia, se for dado, eu só não bebo veneno).

A verdade doa a quem doer... E aí, doeu?

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